Post Font and a Craggy 2 reset

I was really hoping that my week away would keep my levels of fitness up and that I would come back and cruise through the problems down the wall. Whilst not exactly "cruising" I was pleasantly surprised with my efforts. I managed to onsight 2 of the hard problems ( 7a?? ), got two more on my second go and got a few more reasonably quickly.

October in Fontainebleau

Undetered by the poor looking forecast myself, Pete and Andre headed to Font with the aim of "crushing". Arriving at 4am in the pouring rain and have to put your tent up was not much fun. At 9am it was time to get up and to be honest the weather wasn't much better. Font is an amazing place though, after spending the morning stocking up on supplies for the next few days we were climbing by the afternoon. The rest of the week was much better and with only one forced rest day the trip had to go down as a great success. Sadly neither my SLR or video camera really made it out of the bag this trip but below is a list of my ticks for the week.

Le Papillon - 7a
Cadeau Assis - 7a
Destroy Men ( sortie directe ) - 7a
Vis a Vis - 7a
Tentation - 6c+/7a
Retrofriction - 7a
Syphilisse - 7a ( hard for the grade, 7a+ ??? )
Fantomas - 6c+/7a
Nostalgie - 6c+/7a
Mort Intime - 7a
Code Secret - 7a
Le Renard Bleau - 7a
Couguar Blanc - 7a

One week and counting

So less than a week until I'm heading back out to Fontainebleau. The training is going pretty well and I've been ticking the odd 7a down the wall and my ankle seems to be holding up. So seven days of solid climbing ahead, weather permitting. The camera is fully charged and I hope to capture a reasonable amount of footage for a new video.

Weekend in the Peak

Saturday

Actually managed to get away on time this morning, which is somewhat amazing seeing as my wife has an aversion to early mornings. As with most of our recent trips it's raining , but none the less we are staying in beautiful surroundings. Tonight's plan is to head to Hathersage to meet up with Pete for a bite to eat. For now Elizabeth is having a spa treatment and I'm in the bar! Who could ask for more

Change of venue

Decided to head down to Guildford tonight to go on their new problems. I was expecting great things after my recent efforts at Sutton. In reality things were far from easy as I found myself slapping around on 6b+'s. I managed to salvage the evening by a reasonably quick ascent of red 6c+. I also made a fair effort on red and white 6c+ and blue 6c , both undergraded in my opinion.
Anyway no climbing this weekend as I'm off to the Peak District with the Mrs for a weekend break

Continued success

Well as promised I got back on hard grey and was surprised that it went relatively quickly, I guess it's around 7a (saves the hard move for the very top). I also got myself to go on the hard White, this went first go and also at around 7a. I rounded the evening off by completing medium red. I'm sorry but there is no way that problem is only 6b+, more like 6c to 6c+. In any case I got it done and I never have to go on the thing again. Well I now have a whole month before the problems are reset and I've only got four left to do. Happy days!

Sunday Pass

Permit granted for an afternoon session down the wall. Found out today that 92 new problems had been set in the Rock Room over the last few days, within just two sessions last week I had ticked all but 9. Today's plan was to try and mop up some of the harder ones. I made good progress on the hard grey dyno making it right up to the last moves, just ran out of steam ( going to make sure I get that one finished on Tuesday).  I went on white but found myself struggling with a long reach. I did have success however on beige, easy moves lead up to a wild foot flick where you really have to use your heal to pull yourself into the wall. Pleased to have got that one done, reckon it goes at about 7a. 

Thursday

The rest of the Rock Room was reset and I guess that added another fourty new problems. Today's tatic was to just try and get as many ticked off as I could. Probably got a couple of the hard problems done ( up to 6c+/7a ). Projects for next week include beige, grey , red and green all on the steep wall. Finally feeling some strength returning but still plagued by a painful elbow and sore ankle. Oh well, soldiering on!

Craggy 2

Tuesday and I was down at Craggy 2 for my first crack at the newly set Rock Room. I guess fourty or so new problems had been set. Had a really good session and managed to tick all but two. Good range of problems going up to about 6c+. Hope to get the last two on Thursday, by then the rest of the room will have been reset as well so plenty to go at!

Sportland

Saturday night and just arrived back from Andrew's leaving meal. Early start tomorrow for my first foray into climbing at Portland for years. More after the break.